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Folding Proofer & Slow Cooker
Specifications
- Temperature Range: 70–195F / 21–90C
- Typical Humidity: 60-80%
- Body Material: Reinforced Polypropylene
- Water Tray Material: Aluminum
- Heating Plate Material: Solid Brushed Aluminum
- Dimensions (Interior): 14.75 x 12.5 x 8” high, 8.5″ high without rack / 37.5 x 32 x 20 cm high
- Dimensions (Exterior Open): 18 x 14.5 x 10” high / 46 x 37 x 25.5cm high
- Dimensions (Exterior Closed): 18 x 14.5 x 2.75” high / 46 x 37 x 6.5cm high
- Weight: 9.5 lbs / 4.3 kg
- Power: 120V, 60Hz (200W) -- 220-240V, 50Hz (180-220W)
- Part Storage: Rack and water tray fit inside Folding Proofer for storage.
- Model Number: U.S.A. and Canada (120V): FP-105 -- International (220-240V): FP-205
FAQ
I have been making bread for years. Do I need a Proofer?
Home bakers are often disadvantaged because they lack a well-controlled fermenting and proofing environment. Most bakers understand that great bread requires quality ingredients. However, even with the best ingredients, homemade bread often lacks flavor, texture, and is uninteresting in every sense. This is because bakers are missing the one ingredient they need most: Time at the right temperature. The single step that differentiates great bread from mediocre bread is giving the dough a chance to ferment slowly at the ideal temperature. The Proofer allows you to create the best texture and taste in homemade bread with repeatable and consistent results.
What is the difference between the Proofer and a bread machine?
The Folding Proofer is not a bread machine. It is a proofing environment for the fermenting and rising of yeast dough. It eliminates the troublesome temperature and humidity variables that have made it difficult for all bakers–beginners and professionals who bake bread at home. With the Folding Proofer, there is no longer a difficulty finding that “warm, draft free place” in your home for dough to rise. The Proofer makes it possible to bake bread at home with predictable, excellent results. Compared to a loaf made in a bread machine, you will find hand-made bread has improved texture and taste. You still mix your own dough and for some breads knead by hand or with a mixer. You may use your own pans or bake free-form loaves in traditional shapes. Higher-quality, more delicious loaves are made with a temperature-controlled proofing environment and baking in a separate pre-heated oven.
Can the Proofer run for more than a few hours at a time?
Yes, the Proofer has been tested and approved for unattended operation and may be run continuously. It uses very little electricity, only about 0.03 kwh per hour when set at 75 °F / 24 °C.
What temperature setting is optimum for different types of bread?
There is a range of temperatures that work well for bread dough, and if the recipe or book you are using specifies a temperature, consider using that setting. - Sourdough works well fermenting at a temperature of 80-86 F/ 27-30 C in order to give the wild yeast a boost. - Commercial yeast is more vigorous, so dough made with it benefits from a lower temperature that promotes flavor development, 75-79 F / 24-26 C. - Sweet doughs and croissants often contain butter and do best when temperatures are kept below the melting point of butter. We recommend 80 F / 27 C or lower for these doughs. - Rye flour has weaker gluten and higher enzyme activity. Higher Proofer temperatures are appropriate (80-86 F / 27-30 C) to shorten fermentation time and keep the enzymes from degrading the dough too quickly. - Cold dough that has been retarded in the refrigerator often needs an extra hour (or more per pound / 500g of dough) added to its rising time, to allow the dough to come up to temperature. Ideally, frozen dough should be thawed in the refrigerator before proofing.
Why isn’t the air temperature inside my Proofer the same as the setting?
The Proofer is calibrated to keep the contents of a jar or bowl at the designated temperature setting, not the air inside. Measuring the air temperature in the proofer with a thermometer will not indicate the temperature of food in a container. This is because the Proofer heats mainly by radiative heating directly from the aluminum heating plate in the base to the food containers. The air temperature inside the Proofer will become warm, but will not be the same as the temperature of food inside containers. In Proofer mode, items should always be placed on a rack. There are two important factors that affect the temperature of food in the Proofer: - Covering a container will raise the temperature of the food inside the container - Adding water to the tray to create humidity will raise the temperature of food in the container. The Proofer has been calibrated in two ways: - Humid (with water tray): 70-95 °F / 21-35 °C. Use open containers. Bread dough and preferment in open bowls, loaf, or sheet pans. - Dry (no water tray): 70 -120 °F / 21 – 49 °C. Use closed containers. Commonly used for culturing yogurt. If the Proofer is used in dry mode at 70-95 °F / 21-35 °C food temperatures may be several degrees below the setpoint.
Should I cover my bread dough?
Most dough and shaped loaves do not need to be covered while in the Proofer because the water tray will provide ideal humidity to keep the dough from forming a skin. All bread recipes on the Brod & Taylor website are developed with temperature settings for uncovered dough. If the dough is covered you may find an increased dough temperature of 2-5 degrees depending on the length of time the dough is in the Proofer. However, if using the Proofer for an extended fermentation, such as an overnight pre-ferment at a low temperature, it may be safest to cover the bowl or container.
What is the difference between fermenting and proofing?
Fermenting is where the flavors are created and takes much longer than the proofing stage. Fermentation begins when yeast (instant or natural air-borne) is introduced to flour and water. The pre-ferment is a controlled aging process that allows the yeasts to eat at will since there are so few of them at first. Proofing is the final gas production that aerates the dough so it isn’t dense and gummy. Proofing is still fermenting. Sometimes called the final ferment. A single bread dough loaf is bulk fermented after mixing and kneading. After it is shaped it is called proofing or the “final ferment”.
My Proofer doesn’t seem to be getting warm enough – is it working properly?
If your Proofer is set to a cooler temp 75 °F / 24 °C, it may not feel very warm to the touch even when it is working properly. To speed rising, set it to 85-90 °F / 29-32 °C. If you have been rising bread in an oven or other area that is quite warm, you may need to set the Proofer temperature higher to obtain similar results. However, the best flavors in bread are usually obtained when the dough is given enough time to rise slowly.
My Proofer doesn’t seem to be getting too warm – is it working properly?
For the best heat circulation and most accurate culturing temperature, avoid placing jars or containers directly in the center of the Proofer. The Proofer will fit eight one quart (1 liter) mason jars without the need to place a jar in the center. For cultures or fermentations that require extended times (>12 hours) more stable results may be achieved in the Slow Cook mode, which may be set as low as 85 °F / 30 °C. Jars or other containers of food can be placed inside a larger flat bottom container (such as a stock pot or aluminum roast pan) and covered with a lid or foil and placed directly on the heating plate. Choose Slow Cook with the Mode button and set the desired temperature.
Can household ovens with a low temperature setting be used to proof?
1. Low temperature ovens do not control and hold at the single degree-by-degree temperature level. 2. Low temperature ovens do not have proper humidity control The lowest temperature on a low temperature oven can not maintain the very low range of temperatures starting at 70F – 21C temperature. 3.Our Proofer is calibrated by engineers to maintain the internal food temperature of the bread dough, yogurt culture, or whatever food is being made in the Proofer. A low temperature oven is set for the air inside the oven, not the ingredients a person is making. The recipes developed by Brod & Taylor have been successfully tested at the specific temperature settings indicated on each recipe.
Does the Proofer have a thermostat?
Yes, there is a thermostat located in the base of the Proofer. The heating element cycles on and off according to the temperature of the aluminum plate. This cycling on and off occurs within a very narrow range, making the Proofer very accurate and reliable at maintaining a steady temperature.
Will the Proofer work in any environment?
The Proofer has been calibrated for a room temperature of 65 – 70 °F / 18 – 21 °C. The Proofer is only designed to warm its contents, not cool. If the room temperature is above the set point, the Proofer cannot be cooler. If the ambient is very cold – lower than 55 °F / 13 °C, the temperature setting may need to be adjusted a few degrees higher to achieve the desired result.
The lid will not shut when folding the Proofer.
1.Make sure the folding sides are collapsed correctly and attached to the hinge at the inside back of the base.
2. Ensure the small plastic cross guides are visible on the top.
3. Place the wire rack with feet UP so it is secured by the cross guides.
How long should I preheat the proofer?
Generally, just preheat for 10-15 minutes.
What size bread pans will fit in the Proofer?
Two “large” loaves, approximately 2lb / 900 g each of dough. The Brød & Taylor Shelf-Kit accessory will double capacity. Interior space of the Proofer is 14.75 x 12.5 x 8” high / 37.5 x 32 x 20cm high. If overall pan size with rims and/or handles is less than 12 x 14″ – 30.5 x 35.5 cm the pan will fit. For the best circulation of warmth and humidity, place pans away from the sides of the Proofer. Many of our customers also purchase supplies from King Arthur Flour. We have a chart of KAF pan sizes that fit correctly in the Proofer and also pans which will not fit in the Proofer. The chart may be helpful when considering a purchase at King Arthur Flour or another store. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0382/1836/7107/files/King-Arthur-Flour-Pan-Fit-Chart.pdf?v=1586800547
What is the best way to proof baguettes in the Proofer?
Place the baguettes on a bakers couche placed on a flat pan or other non-absorbent flat support. We cut a full-sized baker’s couche in half so there wasn’t too much fabric blocking the humidity. With the Shelf-Kit accessory two racks of baguettes are an option, so we like having the two pieces of Baker’s Couche for Proofer uses. The couche is lightly floured and never washed. Keep it shaken out after each use and lightly re-flour each time before use. Place the bakers couche on a small flat sheet pan for ease in handling in and out of the Proofer. Flat pans are optimum so you can gently roll each baguette onto a peel. We always warm up the Proofer about 30 minutes prior to proofing and make sure water is in the tray below.
My dough often becomes sticky. What causes this?
Sticky dough is often caused by over hydration or over proofing. Yeast microbes can’t travel on their own for new food so punching down or degassing does that for them. Under normal conditions there is enough food for the yeast to rise again after at least one punch down and a second rise. Eventually the yeast will eat so much food the dough starts to break down and become really sticky. It is ruined as soon as that starts to occur.
The folding sides of my Proofer came apart, how do I put them back together?
Video Instructions In order to prevent the folding sides from coming apart, we recommend always leaving them attached to the base of the Proofer in the rear hinges, even during folding and set up.
Is the Folding Proofer noisy?
No, operation of the Folding Proofer is silent.
How does the lid of the Proofer attach to the sides?
When the Proofer is set up, the lid rests on the walls. It does not click into place or latch. However, there is a specific way to line up the lid so that it fits properly. The two square pegs at the rear of the lid fit into the square-shaped notches at the rear wall, then the lid hinges down onto the walls.
What is the power consumption of the Proofer per hour?
The Proofer consumes 200 watts. When it is operating it has a duty cycle of about 30%. This means the heater is only using 200W for 30% of the time, depending on the temperature (the lower the temperature the less the time the heater has to run). If the Proofer was ON 100% of the time it would use: - 200 watts x 1 hour = 200 watt hour (= 0.2kwh) But since it is only on about 30% of the time, the actual energy consumption is: - 200 watt hour x 0.3 = 60 watt hour = 0.06 kWh / hour In other words, it uses the same energy as a 60 watt light bulb.
How is the Slow Cooking mode different?
Slow cooking mode directly controls your pot temperature though the aluminum plate. This is different from proofing mode, where the temperature of the plate is calibrated to keep your dough, yogurt, or other food at a certain setpoint temperature.
Comparing temperature settings on The Folding Proofer and Slow Cooker to a traditional slow cooker requires some explanation. Most conventional slow cookers (typically with only Low and High settings) actually have no temperature control at all. They heat slowly and continuously until the maximum temperature is reached – usually boiling. This means for much of the time you are slow cooking, your food is actually below or above the actual ideal cooking temperature. With many slow cookers Low and High settings are actually identical. Certain “multi-cooker” appliances with a slow cook function do have temperature control, although performance varies greatly between brands and there is no universal standard for Low or High setting.
Our Folding Slow Cooker uses calibrated temperature control to maintain the selected temperature. You can choose the ideal cooking temperature for your recipe without worrying about over-cooking your food. Temperature settings are most accurate using a stainless steel pot with a flat bottom, but most any type of metal pot can be used.
What kind of pot should I use for slow cooking?
Temperature settings will be most accurate using a stainless steel pot with a thick flat base. The best choice will have some type of heat conductive metal in the base such as aluminum. All Clad ™ stockpots are among our favorites, but there are many other brands. It is possible to use cast iron Dutch ovens, either bare or porcelain coated, but these pots may be 10-15 °F / 5-8 °C below the temperature setting at the highest temperatures. To achieve the highest temperature in a cast iron Dutch oven wrap it in a single layer of aluminum foil to greatly reduce its heat loss. Porcelain enameled cast iron Dutch ovens will get as hot as stainless steel pots if they are wrapped in aluminum foil.
The photographs above are of the same pot. The one on the right was taken with an infrared camera. In this photo on the right side of the pot, where there is no aluminum foil wrap, you can see tremendous emissivity of thermal heat (thermal heat energy loss). When using a recipe where a high temperature of 195 °F / 90 °C is indicated (as in pork recipes), wrapping an enamel-coated cast iron pot or a cast iron & glass-top pot with one layer of foil on the sides and pot lid will allow the internal temperature of the pot to rise. If the temperature is set to 195 °F / 90 °C the Proofer & Slow Cooker will not allow the internal contents of the food to rise above 195 °F /90 °C.
One easy method is to place 2 pieces of foil on a flat surface with the pot in the middle and then wrap to cover the pot and lid.
Can I use ceramic crocks or ramekins in the Folding Proofer & Slow Cooker?
Slow cooking should always be done in a metal pot. Ceramic crocks and ramekins do not conduct heat well and will not reach the temperature set point.
Why isn’t my pot hot?
Make sure that you have removed the rack from your Proofer. The pot must sit directly on the aluminum heating base plate. Food temperature in the pot will vary somewhat depending on the type of pot. Temperature settings are most accurate using a stainless steel pot with a thick base and flat bottom.
How long can I leave food in the slow cooker?
There is no specific limit on how long the Folding Proofer & Slow Cooker may be run. Most slow cook recipes will take a maximum of 10-12 hours. Slow roasting black garlic will take up to four weeks at 140 °F / 60 °F. The Folding Proofer original model FP-101 can also be operated for weeks and months at a time.
Is there a “stay warm” temperature?
You may reduce the temperature setting to 160 °F / 71 °C to safely hold food at a warm temperature. As an extra precaution, we suggest that you double check the temperature of the food to ensure that it is above 150 °F / 66 °C. Always keep a tight fitting lid on your cooking pot inside the closed Folding Proofer & Slow Cooker.
I want to use a non-Brod & Taylor Slow Cooker recipe – how do I convert settings and times?
Use the same times recommended for cooking on LOW in a conventional slow cooker.
Can I cook overnight?
The Folding Proofer & Slow cooker is approved for unattended use and can be used overnight. Please be sure to follow all safety instructions in the Instruction Manual whenever using this appliance, and especially when it is used unattended.
What plastic materials are in the Folding Proofer?
The proofer has passed the most recent and stringent RoHS3 test currently required in the EU (there is no such requirement in the USA). RoHS means Restriction of Hazardous Substances. RoHS3 tests for 10 classes of restricted substances and sets maximum levels. Every single part of the proofer was tested. RoHS specifies maximum levels for the following restricted materials: • Lead (Pb): < 1000 ppm • Mercury (Hg): < 100 ppm • Cadmium (Cd): < 100 ppm • Hexavalent Chromium: (Cr VI) < 1000 ppm • Polybrominated Biphenyls (PBB): < 1000 ppm • Polybrominated Diphenyl Ethers (PBDE): < 1000 ppm • Bis(2-Ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP): < 1000 ppm • Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP): < 1000 ppm • Dibutyl phthalate (DBP): < 1000 ppm • Diisobutyl phthalate (DIBP): < 1000 ppm Test Methods: For heavy metals and flame retardants – Energy Dispersive X-ray Fluorescence Spectrometers (XRF); For phalates – Gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy (GC – MS). All tests PASSED with most tests results being below detectable limits. The majority of large parts of the proofer (white parts) and made from polypropylene (PP). It is one of the safest plastics and also highly resistant to temperature. (Plastics information From Healthline.com) Of the commercial plastics on the market today, polypropylene is considered one of the safest. It’s FDA-approved for food contact. Polypropylene is used for food containers such as those that hold yogurt, cream cheese, and butter. Because it has a high heat tolerance, it is often used in packaging of food that can be heated in a microwave. Some surgical devices and implants are also made of polypropylene, and polypropylene fibers are commonly used to weave area rugs for indoor and outdoor use. Polypropylene, which is derived from petroleum, is considered by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to be a safer choice than some other types of plastics. It’s not known to cause cancer in humans, and it’s less flammable in fabrics than wool. Is polypropylene BPA free? Bisphenol A (BPA) is a chemical used in the manufacturing of polycarbonate plastics. It’s also used in epoxy resins that coat the insides of canned goods and water supply pipes. BPA leaches into food and water supplies easily. More than 93 percent of the urine samples examined in a CDC study contained BPA concentrations. Although the FDA has said that small amounts of BPA are safe for humans, some environmental and health experts are concerned that exposure to BPA could lead to problems with brain development, immune function, learning abilities, reproductive disorders, and other health issues. The growing concern around BPA has led to the production of several types of BPA-free plastics. Polypropylene is one type of plastic that’s free of BPA. The clear plastic window on the proofer lid is NOT polycarbonate. It is a plastic called SAN. SAN. It is widely used in place of another clear plastic, polystyrene, owing to its greater thermal resistance. SAN is BPA free.
I spilled food all over the bottom of the slow cooker—how do I clean it up?
Do not immerse the base unit in water if the unit becomes soiled, instead use a soft cloth with a bit of water to remove the spill. As a preventative measure before using the Proofer, you can place a piece of aluminum foil on the base plate beneath the pot so that any spill is easy to collect and discard.
Instruction Manual
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Sahara Folding Dehydrator
Specifications
- Temperature Range: 85-165°F / 30-74°C (Also Operates Fan Only / No Heat)
- Running Time: 15 min - 99 hours (Time 1) / 15 min - 99 hours (Time 2)
- Dimensions (Closed): 22”W x 12 1/4”D x 3 3/4”H (56cm W x 31 D x 9.5 H)
- Dimensions (Open): 22”W x 14 3/8”D x 11”H (56cm W x 36.5 D x 28 H)
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Weight: Dehydrator Only: 12.8 lbs / 5.8 kg
- Stainless Steel Shelves: 4.9 lbs / 2.2 kg (DR-710/20 S)
- Polypropylene Plastic Shelves: 4.1 lbs / 1.9 kg (DR-710/20 P) - Power: DR-710 120VAC 50-60Hz (750W) - DR-720 220-240VAC 50Hz (690-820W)
FAQ
Is it safe to leave the dehydrator running unattended?
The Sahara Dehydrator is engineered to operate unattended. Internal thermal controls protect against overheating due to a malfunction. As with all electrical appliances, the dehydrator should be used on a hard flat surface. Do not block any air intakes or exhaust on the back, underneath or top. Never store items on top of the dehydrator. Do not operate near flammable liquids or vapors.
How much electricity does the Sahara use?
The Sahara Dehydrator has two independent heating circuits of 375W each (750 total). The fan uses very little electricity. In normal operation, the heating circuits turn on and off to maintain temperature and low humidity. Typically the energy consumed over a full cycle of dehydration is less than 0.4 kWh/hr.
Does it turn off automatically?
The digital timer can be set up to 99 hours. At the completion of the set time, both the heater and fan will switch off automatically. Additionally, a second time can be set to run after the first time is complete (Dual Time / Temperature Mode).
Can I change time and temperature settings during operation?
You can pause operation at anytime during dehydration by pressing the PAUSE button. When paused, you can adjust time remaining and temperature settings. Press the PAUSE /START button again to restart operation.
Are the drying shelves dishwasher safe?
The Sahara Dehydrator comes in two models: one with stainless steel wire shelves and one with poly plastic shelves. The stainless steel shelves are completely dishwasher safe. Poly plastic shelves can be washed in dishwashers up to 167°F / 75°C. Most household dishwashers operate below this temperature.
Are the materials BPA free?
None of the materials used in the Sahara Dehydrator contain BPA. Food comes into contact with the shelves only. Shelves are available in stainless steel (high quality food grade series 304) or food safe polypropylene plastic. The ABS plastic enclosure is also BPA free. For the ultimate in food safety we recommend using the stainless steel shelves. Sahara Dehydrator drying mats (available separately) are made from high quality silicone and are food safe even at high temperatures. No PTFE materials (such as Teflon®) are used in any Sahara Dehydrator components or accessories.
What are the benefits of drying food at home?
Drying or “dehydrating” food is a method of food preservation that removes enough moisture from the food so bacteria, yeast and molds cannot grow. Dried foods are tasty, nutritious, lightweight, easy to prepare, easy to carry and easy to use. Low humidity, low heat and good air circulation are critical for successful drying. Once dry, store foods in a dark, cool location in containers that keep out moisture and insects.
Is it safe to dry meat in the Sahara Dehydrator?
Meat can be safely dried in the SAHARA dehydrator by following a few common sense precautions. When handling raw meat, follow strict cleanliness procedures. Keep meat cool prior to placing in the dehydrator. Dry meat at a setting of at least 160F / 71C. At the completion of drying, meat will achieve an internal temperature equal to the setting. Some studies recommend heating red meat to 160F / 71C and chicken to 165F / 74C BEFORE dehydrating, because food contaminants may become more heat resistant after drying. However, this technique alters the texture of the dehydrated meat that some may find objectionable. Read more about meat drying on sites such as: https://www.fsis.usda.gov https://www.cals.uidaho.edu/edcomm/pdf/PNW/PNW0632.pdf
Why is the food temperature less than the air temperature?
Evaporation causes cooling. We all experience this cooling of the skin when getting out of a pool or a shower, or the more significant cooling that occurs when water evaporates from wet clothing. Wet food drying in the dehydrator is cooled by this effect. Actual food temperature may be up to 35F / 20C lower than the temperature setting. As the food dries and evaporation stops the temperature of the food will rise to the setting on the dehydrator. To control the temperature of the food through the entire drying cycle, use the Dual Time -Temperature Mode.
Why does it take so long to dry food?
The Sahara Dehydrator creates the ideal conditions to evaporate moisture from the surface of wet food. Ultimately, the time required for the food to fully dry is controlled by how long it takes for all the water in the interior of the food to migrate to the surface so it can evaporate. Certain techniques can speed drying times, but often at the expense of flavor and texture. The easiest way to speed drying is to prepare thin slices of food. But very thin food slices may not be as enjoyable to eat. Raising the dehydration temperature will also speed drying, however, if the temperature is too hot a skin may form on the surface of the food that slows down the drying process.
What other factors affect the drying time?
Humidity of the air, quantity of food in the dehydrator, moisture content of the food and altitude can affect drying time.
How can I speed up the drying process?
In the initial stage of drying, food may be as much as 45°F / 25°C below the air temperature setting. In most cases, you can safely raise the temperature by this amount for the first several hours of drying to decrease drying time.
My food is taking longer to dry? Is there something wrong with the dehydrator?
There are many factors that affect drying times. The relative humidity of the air in the room where the dehydrator is used will affect drying time. Food will dry slower when the humidity is high (more water vapor is in the air slows evaporation). The temperature of the room and altitude can also affect drying time.
What is the best way to store dehydrated food?
Store dehydrated food in sealed containers in a cool dark area. Vacuum sealed bags are excellent for storage.
What are drying mats and why would I want them?
Sahara drying mats are food-safe silicone. They are excellent for sticky foods, liquids, fruit leathers, or small items such as berries, nuts, seeds or herbs that might fall through the grating of standard shelves.
What will happen if I operate the dehydrator without an air filter?
The Sahara Dehydrator is carefully designed to optimize airflow and circulation with the air filter in place. Additionally, operating the dehydrator without a filter can draw dust and debris inside the fan and heater. It is very difficult to clean the fan or heater and may cause damage.
How long do air filters last?
The air filter can be used continuously as long as it is clean. If the filter cannot be cleaned or is damaged it should be replaced. Filters are available from authorized Brod & Taylor Sahara distributors.
Can I use an air filter from another appliance such as my vacuum cleaner?
Air filters from vacuums and other appliances may degrade the performance of the dehydrator. Only authentic Brod & Taylor Sahara Dehydrator filters should be used.
How do I turn off the beeper that signals the completion of the timer?
Hold Start/Pause button 2 seconds to Enable/Disable Mute Mode. In Mute Mode the completion beep is silenced.
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Professional VG2 Knife Sharpener
Specifications
- Base Material: Solid 18/10 Stainless Steel (Professional) / PA66 Nylon (Classic)
- Knife Types: Sharpen Standard, Serrated, Pocket, and Japanese-Style Knives
- Safe for High-Quality Damascus Blades
- Sharpening Bar Material: Precision-ground ultra-hard tungsten carbide (HRC 95)
- Sharpener Lifetime: Sharpening bars last over 5-10 years with normal use (replacement sharpening bars available)
- Dimensions: 4¼ x 3½ x 6″ high (11 x 8.5 x 15 cm high)
- Weight: 29 oz / 814 gm
FAQ
I have never owned a knife sharpener. Why do I need one?
Knives are among the most used items in a kitchen. A sharp knife is actually safer to use than a dull knife. It won’t slip, requires less pressure and is a joy to use. Once you experience a truly sharp knife you will never believe you survived so long with a dull one.
I have my knives professionally sharpened. Why do I need my own sharpener?
Most people who use professional sharpening services wait until their knives are quite dull to have them sharpened. At that point, the only way to restore a sharp edge is by removing a substantial amount of metal during sharpening. With the Brød & Taylor sharpener, it is fast and easy to maintain a sharp edge at home, without the removal of any metal. This greatly reduces or may eliminate the need for reshaping the blade by removing metal. Along with avoiding the hassle and expense of taking your knives out to have them sharpened, you have the bonus of using a sharp knife every day.
How is the Brød & Taylor Knife Sharpener different from other sharpeners?
Traditional sharpening uses abrasives to grind away metal. Coarse abrasives can remove metal quickly, but they leave a rough edge. Fine abrasives work slowly. Abrasive materials become clogged with metal dust and can quickly loose effectiveness. Electric systems generate heat and must be used very carefully, or they can quickly damage a blade. The Brød & Taylor sharpener uses an extremely hard tungsten carbide sharpening surface that can actually cut a smooth bevel on a steel blade with a few quick strokes. More importantly, the sharpener will hone (fine sharpen) a blade without removing any metal. Regular honing will keep a knife sharp, reduce the need for removing metal from the blade edge, and greatly extend the life of a blade.
Can the sharpener damage my knives?
The Brød & Taylor sharpener is safe for virtually all types of metal knives (it will not sharpen ceramic knives). It is extremely easy to use, but you should read the instructions carefully. If you have used a traditional abrasive sharpener, you may be surprised how quickly the coarse sharpen technique will shape a blade. Only a few strokes are needed to shape the bevel on a dull knife. Use a light pressure and let the sharpener do the work. Honing (fine sharpening) and polishing do not remove any metal from the blade. In most cases, only the honing and polishing techniques should be used on fine knives such as those with Damascus steel blades. Fine knives often have a very small bevel angle that could be altered by coarse sharpening.
How do knives become dull?
Seems like a silly question, but it is perhaps one of the most important ones. Sharp knives begin to dull when the knife is used to cut or chop, causing the very edge of the blade to begin to bend and fold away – even microscopically. Eventually these areas break off and leave a dull edge. To keep a blade sharp, these bends need to be regularly pushed back into shape before they can cause damage to the blade. This can be achieved by regularly honing (fine sharpening) the knife. No metal is removed and the life of the blade is extended, because the need for coarse sharpening and removing metal from the blade edge is greatly reduced.
For more info, read more about knife sharpening.
How often do I need to sharpen a knife?
Knives should be honed (fine sharpened) frequently. Daily honing is best. No metal is removed and keeping the blade sharp actually extends the life of the blade. With frequent honing, you may never need to coarse sharpen your knife.
How should I sharpen Japanese knives?
Japanese blades may require some different sharpening techniques. In general, Japanese blades have a more narrow cutting angle (closer to 12 degrees) as compared to 15-16 for European blades. Additionally, some Japanese knives are single-beveled only on one side (usually the left) but this is not always the case. Examine your knife blade carefully in bright light to determine if it is a single or double bevel. Additionally, Japanese knives typically use steel that is much harder than Western or European knives and therefore is more brittle. DOUBLE BEVEL Japanese blades: 1. Coarse sharpening: This can be done, but use a very light touch to maintain the 12 degree bevel. Use sparingly. Many customers have their Japanese blades ground to the proper edge by the manufacturer and use our sharpener to maintain the edge with honing and polishing. More expensive Japanese knives may be made with great care and purchased for their aesthetic value as well as function. While our sharpener will create a sharp cutting edge on these knives, the bevel may not be exactly the same shape or have the beauty of the original hand-finished ground bevel. We highly recommend honing and polishing these knives regularly. This will not remove metal or change the shape of the bevel. It will keep the cutting edge aligned and sharp. This is particularly important with Japanese knives because the hard steel is more likely to chip or crack when the cutting edge begins to roll. 2. Honing: Recommend this regularly. It is even more important to do this regularly with Japanese blades as compared to western. Since the steel is very hard it is important to keep the blade aligned and avoid micro fractures on the edge. 3. Polishing: Highly recommended. This will keep the cutting edge extra sharp. SINGLE BEVEL Japanese blades: 1. Coarse sharpening: Do not coarse sharpen. The sharpener always cuts a double bevel edge. 2. Honing: Angle the knife handle to the LEFT so that only the left side of the knife touches the left sharpening bar. Keep the knife horizontal to the table and pull through. This will hone the left side of the blade. It is just the mirror image of the technique used for kitchen serrated knives. 3. Polishing: This can be done on the single sided blade. Since no metal is removed, it will safely polish any smooth blade to a high degree of sharpness. Draw the knife straight back and repeat. Polishing is safe and effective for single bevel Japanese knives and is done in the standard way.
How does the sharpener adjust to different blade angles?
The patented spring-action sharpening bars allow the blade to float, and automatically accommodate the natural angle of the knife’s bevel. If you press down harder on the blade, the angle of the bevel will increase. In general, just use a light touch and let the blade glide through.
Can the sharpener be used on ceramic blades?
No. The Brød & Taylor sharpening surfaces are extremely hard (HRC 95), but are designed only for use on metal blades. Most high-quality knives have blades with hardness in the HRC 60-69 range.
How long will the sharpeners last?
With normal household use, Brød & Taylor sharpeners are expected to last more than 5 years. Replacement sharpening bars are available for the Professional and Classic Models.
What materials are the sharpeners made of?
The sharpening bars are very rigid PA66 Nylon plastic. The sharpening surfaces are ultra-hard tungsten carbide (HRC 95). The Professional Sharpener’s base and springs are made of solid stainless steel. The base of the Classic model is also PA66 Nylon.
Are replacement sharpeners available?
Yes, replacement sharpening bars are available for the Professional and Classic Knife Sharpeners.
What is the best way to clean the sharpener?
A small soft brush (such as an inexpensive, synthetic bristle paint brush) can be used to dust off any reside from sharpening. Wipe the body with a damp towel to keep stainless steel glistening. When necessary, the sharpeners can be rinsed or washed with warm, soapy water, then wiped dry with a soft cloth.
Is the Brød & Taylor sharpener faster than traditional sharpeners with stones?
Sharpening with stones or other abrasives requires many steps from coarse to fine. Each step must eliminate all the scratches from the previous step to achieve a good result. The tungsten carbide system works much faster with a better result for most home cooks and chefs.
Will the sharpener make a knife sharper than traditional stone sharpening?
A skilled craftsmen with a full set of sharpening stones, such as expensive Japanese water stones or synthetic diamond stone, can create a blade of unrivaled sharpness (sometimes called “scary sharp,” such as a surgical scalpel). Mastering this sharpening skill takes the right equipment and years of practice. Practically speaking, knives this sharp are not required, or even desired, in the kitchen. With the Brød & Taylor sharpener, anyone can create an extremely sharp blade for kitchen use in seconds. The sharpener is so quick and easy to use, you will find yourself honing your knives regularly, so knives stay sharp.
What other things can I sharpen?
The Professional and Classic Knife Sharpener counter-top models excel at a variety of curved blades, such as the hooked paring knives. Woodworkers will be surprised at how easy it is to sharpen carving knives and even draw knife blades.
Can I sharpen scissors?
No, these sharpeners are not designed for sharpening scissors.
I have used other sharpeners with tungsten carbide that performed poorly. Why is this sharpener better?
There are many different grades of tungsten carbide, they are not all created equal. It is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. Bargain-bin, so-called tungsten carbide sharpeners are little more than poor quality sheet metal. Brød & Taylor’s Austrian-made tungsten carbide is extremely hard (Rockwell hardness HRC 95 — much harder than knives, which fall into the HRC 60-70 range) and is precision-ground with a very sharp cutting edge and polished, flat surfaces for honing and polishing. Visually compare the sharpeners to any other product and the difference is obvious.
How often should I hone (fine sharpen) compared to coarse sharpen?
Honing (fine sharpening) can and should be performed often, daily is best. With honing, no metal is removed and the blade is kept at optimum sharpness. If a knife is honed daily, it may never get dull enough to require coarse sharpening. Coarse sharpening is generally done only when a blade has become very dull. For a good quality knife, a good ratio to remember is 100 strokes honing (fine sharpen) to 1 stroke coarse sharpen.
How long does it take to sharpen a knife?
Sharpening with the Brød & Taylor sharpener only takes a few seconds. For a very dull knife, 4-6 strokes of coarse sharpening followed by 4-6 strokes of honing (fine sharpening) will give good results. If desired, use the Polish technique after honing to achieve an extra degree of sharpness.
How do you sharpen a serrated knife?
To sharpen a serrated knife, first inspect the blade edge and notice that one side is flat and the other is beveled (most serrated knives are beveled on the right as the knives are held in cutting position). For a knife that is beveled on the right, place it in the center “V” of the sharpener, then pivot the knife by moving the handle to the right so that the beveled knife edge is touching the silver-colored sharpening bar on the right. Pull the blade smoothly through the sharpener without twisting. The spring-loaded sharpening bar on the right side will hug the curve of each serration, sharpening the entire length of the blade and not just the points. Or, just look on the bottom of your sharpener for instructions!
Why would I want a specific angle on a knife blade?
Fine angle blades (such as a narrow angle of 12 degrees) are better for slicing and delicate work such as filleting. However, they will dull more quickly. A wider angle (such as 20 degrees) will hold up better to jobs such as rough chopping.
How many times do I need to pull the knife through the sharpener to coarse sharpen?
Generally, 4-6 strokes is all that is required, even on the dullest knives. Inspect the blade after a few strokes, it may sharpen faster than you expect.
I notice small shavings of metal after pre-sharpening (coarse sharpening). Is this ruining my knife?
Sharpening a very dull or nicked knife requires removing metal. Abrasive sharpeners create metal dust that often becomes embedded in the sharpener itself. The Brød & Taylor sharpener is not abrasive — it actually cuts the metal blade to a precise angle. The operation is very quick and can create small shavings of metal. This is analogous to the advanced technology used to make parts in computer-controlled machining equipment. In all cases, after sharpening, blades should be wiped clean with a damp cloth.
Does the sharpener remove any metal from the blade when fine sharpening (honing) or polishing?
Honing (fine sharpening) does not remove metal from the blade. The corners of the tungsten carbide sharpening bars push any irregularities or micro-bends in the blade edge back to an optimum “V” shape. Polishing knife edges is optional and does not remove metal. It uses the flat, smooth surfaces of the sharpening bars to burnish the blade at an angle slightly greater than the bevel angle (sometimes called a micro-bevel). This is the same technique used to produce razor blades, it produces the sharpest edge.
What is the difference between honing (fine sharpening) and polishing?
Honing (fine sharpening) uses the corner of the tungsten carbide sharpening bars to push any irregularities or micro-bends on blade edges back into an optimal “V” shape. For honing to be effective, the shape of the bevel must be correct and there must be an edge on the blade. Honing cannot create the proper bevel shape on a very dull knife, this needs to be done with coarse sharpening. With polishing, the very edge of the blade glides through the V-shaped intersection created by the flat surfaces on the two sharpening bars. Since the tungsten carbide sharpening bars are much harder than the knife blade, the blade edge is burnished to a very smooth surface. With the sharpening bars held apart, the angle of the burnish is slightly greater than the angle of the bevel. This quickly creates a very small micro-bevel that is extremely sharp. In fact, a micro-bevel is the same technique used to create the sharp edge on razor blades.
Will the sharpener repair badly damaged knives?
Since the sharpeners are designed to follow the contours of the blade (enabling them to sharpen serrated knives), they will not necessarily remove extremely deep nicks or gouges in the blade. However, even badly damaged knives can be sharpened and honed effectively, and often be used successfully in spite of the flaws.
Instruction Manual
Warranty
More Details
Classic VG2 Knife Sharpener
Specifications
- Base Material: Solid 18/10 Stainless Steel (Professional) / PA66 Nylon (Classic)
- Knife Types: Sharpen Standard, Serrated, Pocket, and Japanese-Style Knives
- Safe for High-Quality Damascus Blades
- Sharpening Bar Material: Precision-ground ultra-hard tungsten carbide (HRC 95)
- Sharpener Lifetime: Sharpening bars last over 5-10 years with normal use (replacement sharpening bars available)
- Dimensions: 4¼ x 3½ x 6″ high (11 x 8.5 x 15 cm high)
- Weight: 29 oz / 814 gm
FAQ
I have never owned a knife sharpener. Why do I need one?
Knives are among the most used items in a kitchen. A sharp knife is actually safer to use than a dull knife. It won’t slip, requires less pressure and is a joy to use. Once you experience a truly sharp knife you will never believe you survived so long with a dull one.
I have my knives professionally sharpened. Why do I need my own sharpener?
Most people who use professional sharpening services wait until their knives are quite dull to have them sharpened. At that point, the only way to restore a sharp edge is by removing a substantial amount of metal during sharpening. With the Brød & Taylor sharpener, it is fast and easy to maintain a sharp edge at home, without the removal of any metal. This greatly reduces or may eliminate the need for reshaping the blade by removing metal. Along with avoiding the hassle and expense of taking your knives out to have them sharpened, you have the bonus of using a sharp knife every day.
How is the Brød & Taylor Knife Sharpener different from other sharpeners?
Traditional sharpening uses abrasives to grind away metal. Coarse abrasives can remove metal quickly, but they leave a rough edge. Fine abrasives work slowly. Abrasive materials become clogged with metal dust and can quickly loose effectiveness. Electric systems generate heat and must be used very carefully, or they can quickly damage a blade. The Brød & Taylor sharpener uses an extremely hard tungsten carbide sharpening surface that can actually cut a smooth bevel on a steel blade with a few quick strokes. More importantly, the sharpener will hone (fine sharpen) a blade without removing any metal. Regular honing will keep a knife sharp, reduce the need for removing metal from the blade edge, and greatly extend the life of a blade.
Can the sharpener damage my knives?
The Brød & Taylor sharpener is safe for virtually all types of metal knives (it will not sharpen ceramic knives). It is extremely easy to use, but you should read the instructions carefully. If you have used a traditional abrasive sharpener, you may be surprised how quickly the coarse sharpen technique will shape a blade. Only a few strokes are needed to shape the bevel on a dull knife. Use a light pressure and let the sharpener do the work. Honing (fine sharpening) and polishing do not remove any metal from the blade. In most cases, only the honing and polishing techniques should be used on fine knives such as those with Damascus steel blades. Fine knives often have a very small bevel angle that could be altered by coarse sharpening.
How do knives become dull?
Seems like a silly question, but it is perhaps one of the most important ones. Sharp knives begin to dull when the knife is used to cut or chop, causing the very edge of the blade to begin to bend and fold away – even microscopically. Eventually these areas break off and leave a dull edge. To keep a blade sharp, these bends need to be regularly pushed back into shape before they can cause damage to the blade. This can be achieved by regularly honing (fine sharpening) the knife. No metal is removed and the life of the blade is extended, because the need for coarse sharpening and removing metal from the blade edge is greatly reduced.
For more info, read more about knife sharpening.
How often do I need to sharpen a knife?
Knives should be honed (fine sharpened) frequently. Daily honing is best. No metal is removed and keeping the blade sharp actually extends the life of the blade. With frequent honing, you may never need to coarse sharpen your knife.
How should I sharpen Japanese knives?
Japanese blades may require some different sharpening techniques. In general, Japanese blades have a more narrow cutting angle (closer to 12 degrees) as compared to 15-16 for European blades. Additionally, some Japanese knives are single-beveled only on one side (usually the left) but this is not always the case. Examine your knife blade carefully in bright light to determine if it is a single or double bevel. Additionally, Japanese knives typically use steel that is much harder than Western or European knives and therefore is more brittle. DOUBLE BEVEL Japanese blades: 1. Coarse sharpening: This can be done, but use a very light touch to maintain the 12 degree bevel. Use sparingly. Many customers have their Japanese blades ground to the proper edge by the manufacturer and use our sharpener to maintain the edge with honing and polishing. More expensive Japanese knives may be made with great care and purchased for their aesthetic value as well as function. While our sharpener will create a sharp cutting edge on these knives, the bevel may not be exactly the same shape or have the beauty of the original hand-finished ground bevel. We highly recommend honing and polishing these knives regularly. This will not remove metal or change the shape of the bevel. It will keep the cutting edge aligned and sharp. This is particularly important with Japanese knives because the hard steel is more likely to chip or crack when the cutting edge begins to roll. 2. Honing: Recommend this regularly. It is even more important to do this regularly with Japanese blades as compared to western. Since the steel is very hard it is important to keep the blade aligned and avoid micro fractures on the edge. 3. Polishing: Highly recommended. This will keep the cutting edge extra sharp. SINGLE BEVEL Japanese blades: 1. Coarse sharpening: Do not coarse sharpen. The sharpener always cuts a double bevel edge. 2. Honing: Angle the knife handle to the LEFT so that only the left side of the knife touches the left sharpening bar. Keep the knife horizontal to the table and pull through. This will hone the left side of the blade. It is just the mirror image of the technique used for kitchen serrated knives. 3. Polishing: This can be done on the single sided blade. Since no metal is removed, it will safely polish any smooth blade to a high degree of sharpness. Draw the knife straight back and repeat. Polishing is safe and effective for single bevel Japanese knives and is done in the standard way.
How does the sharpener adjust to different blade angles?
The patented spring-action sharpening bars allow the blade to float, and automatically accommodate the natural angle of the knife’s bevel. If you press down harder on the blade, the angle of the bevel will increase. In general, just use a light touch and let the blade glide through.
Can the sharpener be used on ceramic blades?
No. The Brød & Taylor sharpening surfaces are extremely hard (HRC 95), but are designed only for use on metal blades. Most high-quality knives have blades with hardness in the HRC 60-69 range.
How long will the sharpeners last?
With normal household use, Brød & Taylor sharpeners are expected to last more than 5 years. Replacement sharpening bars are available for the Professional and Classic Models.
What materials are the sharpeners made of?
The sharpening bars are very rigid PA66 Nylon plastic. The sharpening surfaces are ultra-hard tungsten carbide (HRC 95). The Professional Sharpener’s base and springs are made of solid stainless steel. The base of the Classic model is also PA66 Nylon.
Are replacement sharpeners available?
Yes, replacement sharpening bars are available for the Professional and Classic Knife Sharpeners.
What is the best way to clean the sharpener?
A small soft brush (such as an inexpensive, synthetic bristle paint brush) can be used to dust off any reside from sharpening. Wipe the body with a damp towel to keep stainless steel glistening. When necessary, the sharpeners can be rinsed or washed with warm, soapy water, then wiped dry with a soft cloth.
Is the Brød & Taylor sharpener faster than traditional sharpeners with stones?
Sharpening with stones or other abrasives requires many steps from coarse to fine. Each step must eliminate all the scratches from the previous step to achieve a good result. The tungsten carbide system works much faster with a better result for most home cooks and chefs.
Will the sharpener make a knife sharper than traditional stone sharpening?
A skilled craftsmen with a full set of sharpening stones, such as expensive Japanese water stones or synthetic diamond stone, can create a blade of unrivaled sharpness (sometimes called “scary sharp,” such as a surgical scalpel). Mastering this sharpening skill takes the right equipment and years of practice. Practically speaking, knives this sharp are not required, or even desired, in the kitchen. With the Brød & Taylor sharpener, anyone can create an extremely sharp blade for kitchen use in seconds. The sharpener is so quick and easy to use, you will find yourself honing your knives regularly, so knives stay sharp.
What other things can I sharpen?
The Professional and Classic Knife Sharpener counter-top models excel at a variety of curved blades, such as the hooked paring knives. Woodworkers will be surprised at how easy it is to sharpen carving knives and even draw knife blades.
Can I sharpen scissors?
No, these sharpeners are not designed for sharpening scissors.
I have used other sharpeners with tungsten carbide that performed poorly. Why is this sharpener better?
There are many different grades of tungsten carbide, they are not all created equal. It is definitely a case of getting what you pay for. Bargain-bin, so-called tungsten carbide sharpeners are little more than poor quality sheet metal. Brød & Taylor’s Austrian-made tungsten carbide is extremely hard (Rockwell hardness HRC 95 — much harder than knives, which fall into the HRC 60-70 range) and is precision-ground with a very sharp cutting edge and polished, flat surfaces for honing and polishing. Visually compare the sharpeners to any other product and the difference is obvious.
How often should I hone (fine sharpen) compared to coarse sharpen?
Honing (fine sharpening) can and should be performed often, daily is best. With honing, no metal is removed and the blade is kept at optimum sharpness. If a knife is honed daily, it may never get dull enough to require coarse sharpening. Coarse sharpening is generally done only when a blade has become very dull. For a good quality knife, a good ratio to remember is 100 strokes honing (fine sharpen) to 1 stroke coarse sharpen.
How long does it take to sharpen a knife?
Sharpening with the Brød & Taylor sharpener only takes a few seconds. For a very dull knife, 4-6 strokes of coarse sharpening followed by 4-6 strokes of honing (fine sharpening) will give good results. If desired, use the Polish technique after honing to achieve an extra degree of sharpness.
How do you sharpen a serrated knife?
To sharpen a serrated knife, first inspect the blade edge and notice that one side is flat and the other is beveled (most serrated knives are beveled on the right as the knives are held in cutting position). For a knife that is beveled on the right, place it in the center “V” of the sharpener, then pivot the knife by moving the handle to the right so that the beveled knife edge is touching the silver-colored sharpening bar on the right. Pull the blade smoothly through the sharpener without twisting. The spring-loaded sharpening bar on the right side will hug the curve of each serration, sharpening the entire length of the blade and not just the points. Or, just look on the bottom of your sharpener for instructions!
Why would I want a specific angle on a knife blade?
Fine angle blades (such as a narrow angle of 12 degrees) are better for slicing and delicate work such as filleting. However, they will dull more quickly. A wider angle (such as 20 degrees) will hold up better to jobs such as rough chopping.
How many times do I need to pull the knife through the sharpener to coarse sharpen?
Generally, 4-6 strokes is all that is required, even on the dullest knives. Inspect the blade after a few strokes, it may sharpen faster than you expect.
I notice small shavings of metal after pre-sharpening (coarse sharpening). Is this ruining my knife?
Sharpening a very dull or nicked knife requires removing metal. Abrasive sharpeners create metal dust that often becomes embedded in the sharpener itself. The Brød & Taylor sharpener is not abrasive — it actually cuts the metal blade to a precise angle. The operation is very quick and can create small shavings of metal. This is analogous to the advanced technology used to make parts in computer-controlled machining equipment. In all cases, after sharpening, blades should be wiped clean with a damp cloth.
Does the sharpener remove any metal from the blade when fine sharpening (honing) or polishing?
Honing (fine sharpening) does not remove metal from the blade. The corners of the tungsten carbide sharpening bars push any irregularities or micro-bends in the blade edge back to an optimum “V” shape. Polishing knife edges is optional and does not remove metal. It uses the flat, smooth surfaces of the sharpening bars to burnish the blade at an angle slightly greater than the bevel angle (sometimes called a micro-bevel). This is the same technique used to produce razor blades, it produces the sharpest edge.
What is the difference between honing (fine sharpening) and polishing?
Honing (fine sharpening) uses the corner of the tungsten carbide sharpening bars to push any irregularities or micro-bends on blade edges back into an optimal “V” shape. For honing to be effective, the shape of the bevel must be correct and there must be an edge on the blade. Honing cannot create the proper bevel shape on a very dull knife, this needs to be done with coarse sharpening. With polishing, the very edge of the blade glides through the V-shaped intersection created by the flat surfaces on the two sharpening bars. Since the tungsten carbide sharpening bars are much harder than the knife blade, the blade edge is burnished to a very smooth surface. With the sharpening bars held apart, the angle of the burnish is slightly greater than the angle of the bevel. This quickly creates a very small micro-bevel that is extremely sharp. In fact, a micro-bevel is the same technique used to create the sharp edge on razor blades.
Will the sharpener repair badly damaged knives?
Since the sharpeners are designed to follow the contours of the blade (enabling them to sharpen serrated knives), they will not necessarily remove extremely deep nicks or gouges in the blade. However, even badly damaged knives can be sharpened and honed effectively, and often be used successfully in spite of the flaws.
Instruction Manual
Warranty
Contact Us
For European Inquiries visit: brodandtaylor.eu (240V models available)
Canada Customer Support M-F 9am to 6pm EST
If you call during non-business hours, please leave a message and we will call you back.
Email: contact-ca@brodandtaylor.com
Toll-free phone number: (833) 848-8899
Cact.US Canada Import Export Inc.
925, boul. Maisonneuve Ouest
Suite 112
Montreal, QC, H3A 0A5